Categories » Home Improvement And DIY » EXTERIOR WALLS » Drystone & Ancient Walls 

Photograph of Drystone & Ancient walls

Dry stone walling is an ancient craft using only stone with no mortar or secondary bonding agent. Dry stone walls are arguably a culturally important human contribution to the landscape and the craftsmanship used to build Drystone walls and buildings has developed over thousands of years. Many experts are available to build you a dry stone wall and many are quite happy to pass on the ancient skills and methods to others, others that show willing to learn the careful construction of a dry stone wall.

Add your company to our directory today!

ARTICLE: Building a dry stone wall for garden or backyard.

Stonewalls can be beautiful in backyards and gardens. Stone is the most ancient of building materials, but the most durable. The rustic wall is made of large stones with smaller stones used as filler. This is a most durable and attractive wall to look at, however it involves hard work. If you live in an area that is abundant in stones, you are in luck! Now all you need is determination and a strong back!

The wall consists of layers of large stone-arranged one above or behind another. Smaller rocks act as filler between. Long flat stones called 'bonding stones' span the walls full width and are set at routine intervals in the wall. Gravity and friction alone hold a dry motarless wall together. The weight of each must push steadily against the stones below to keep the wall from tumbling down. Each piece must be placed so that it rests on a flat and strong bed and overlaps 2 or more stones beneath it. The pattern will be somewhat like brickwork. To make the wall more stable the end and front of the wall is sloped toward the center about 1 inch per ft. of height.

If you are building a low dry wall a shallow trench will do however a wall higher than 3 ft. will need a ditch dug deeper than the frost line. Unless you are experienced with laying stone walls, it is suggested to limit your project to 3 ft. The base of the wall should be 2/3rds of the wall height.

Stonecutting.

You will need a stone mason's hammer to trim a stone. To split a stone use a stone chisel and small sledgehammer. Safety goggles and leather gloves are needed to be avoid injury.

Marking a line with a grease pencil where you want it to break cuts fieldstone. Score along the line with sledgehammer and chisel to score along line. With chisel on line hit hard with hammer.

Flagstone is marked and scored on both sides. Place on a 2x4 with scored line 1 in. beyond edge of board tap with hammer.

* To check the wall's slope make a gauge by nailing three 1x2¡¦s to form a 90degree triangle. The height should be the height of the wall, and the base (for the slope) 1-in. per ft. of height.

* Using a stakes and string outline the wall, the trench will need to be 6 in. deep for a 3-ft wall. Bonding stones are set at each end of the trench using the heaviest stone first and then every 4-ft. between.

* The first layer should be as level as possible, with the flattest side of each stone up and the best side should be faced out. Fill the center with small stones.

* Use the string line and slope gauge, as guides to lay second layer, it should be set in somewhat from the first thickness. The large stones will need to tilt toward the center. Alternate vertical joints and place bonding stones every 4-ft.

*Build the layers choosing the stones that will fit tightly and look neat. Small rocks can be used to level up large stones and fill in cracks.

* Use the flattest stones for the capstones (last layer). They should span the width of the wall. Set the top or capstones in mortar

In rocky areas, you may find all of the stones you will need, and some lucky farmer will like the idea of your hauling them away for him. Look for stones with a solid base, a flat top, and one or more straight flat sides. Corner stones will need two flat sides that meet at a right angle. Be sure to ask first, or you may be greeted with the barrel of a trusty old rusty shotgun!